Harvest at Meadowbank

Harvest at Meadowbank

The breeze off the inlet puts a crisp edge on the warmth of the Fall sun.  I pull my jacket closer, turn my face to the sun, and breathe in the stunning view.  A crew of harvesters move with economy, obscured under the nets at Meadowbank Winery in the Coal River Valley Wine Region of southwestern Tasmania.  Gentle hills fall away to the pristine blue of Pitt Water, on the protected northern reaches of Frederick Henry Bay just west of Hobart, the capital of Tasmania.  

They can’t be tall, these pickers, as the nets that deter fruit bats loop and sag between row-end posts and the occasional mid-row upright.  There is a murmur of industriousness from beneath the nets as the harvesting crew races the sugar content to pick at just the right time.  As one step in the complex dance of winemaking has been completed, the rhythm of the season shifts and another twirl begins.

Tasmanian winemakers, the southern-most vintners in Australia, are well-known for their use of cool-weather grapes — the pinots, chardonnay, and rieslings, among others.  While their cabernets are not as famous as their northern neighbors across the Bass Strait, and the fruit not as forward in their wines, the bubblies, made in the “methode champenoise,” are not to be missed.  

Meadowbank’s stunning setting, lodge-like tasting room and comfortable restaurant make it a pleasant place to visit and relax, to take time to enjoy the recently released wines, wander the art exhibitions, and participate in the special events.  Because of its proximity to Hobart, it’s an easy drive to combine with a visit to historic Richmond Village and a stop at the Barilla Bay Oyster farm near the Hobart airport.  

Tasmania prides itself on the pristine quality of its water and air, and indeed the oysters at Barilla Bay have benefitted spectacularly from the lack of pollution.  The shop at Barilla Bay packs their oysters in “eskies” — little styrofoam coolers — complete with a cool-pack so you can enjoy the exquisitely delicate taste on a picnic in Tasmania or back home on the Australian mainland.  We opted for both — one at the start of our Tasmanian exploration and one to take home to share with friends, accompanied by a crisp bite of a Tassie bubbly. 

Partner the winemaker’s art with a half-dozen Barilla Bay oysters for a glorious Tasmanian pas de deux.

*** 

WINEMAKING NOTES, WINERIES, AND OYSTERS:

To Brix or Baumé:

Specific gravity measures the density of the juice relative to pure water.  The density is a result of the sugars present in the grape juice.  About 55% of the sugar converts to alcohol, so from the density and thus the sugars, one can calculate what the alcohol content of the wine will be.  

In Australia and much of Europe, the measurement system for specific gravity is called Baumé, after its inventor in the mid-18th century, pharmacist Antoine Baumé.  The Baumé scale yields a roughly one to one relationship between sugar and alcohol content, so 1º Baumé equals 1% alcohol, and winemakers aim for between 10% and 14.5% alcohol and the corresponding sugar content in the grape juice from the crush.    

In the States, the measurement is done in Brix, named for a German inventor, AEJ Brix.  Each degree on the Brix scale equals 1 gram of sugar in 100 grams of grape juice.  Thus 20º Brix multiplied by .55 equals 11% alcohol.  

Wines typically contain between 10% and 14.5% alcohol, so depending on what the winemaker has in mind, s/he can specify when the grape is to be picked — variables such as hail, rain, and other issues such as labor shortages and early freezes — all taken into account.  Pressure is high to get it just right. 

Near Hobart: (At http://maps.google.com, insert address for map and directions.)

• Meadowbank Winery:  699 Richmond Road, Cambridge, TAS 7170. www.meadowbankwines.com.au 

• Barilla Bay Oysters:  1388 Tasman Highway, Cambridge, TAS (see url for google maps above) (1.5 km past the Hobart Airport roundabout).  We found the oysters themselves far more remarkable than the handy upscale restaurant.  http://www.barillabay.com.au/index2.html

Other Wine Areas to visit in Tasmania (see url for google maps above) — a non-inclusive list:

• Piper’s River Area on the Tamar Valley Wine Route (see below), northwest Tasmania, is an easy drive from the northern Tasmanian port of Launceston.  Visit Jansz Wine Company to taste exceptional sparkling wines, including their very reasonable non-vintage Cuvée (http://www.jansztas.com). Check out the Pipers Brook Vineyard and Winery, after you cross the Tamar River on the beautifully designed Batman Bridge, north and west of Launceston.  Enjoy lunch at their the Pipers Brook Winery Cafe and explore their wines (and sister-company Kreglinger’s sparkling wines) with food. (http://kreglingerwineestates.com).  The third winery in the Kreglinger family is Ninth Island Winery, just east of Launceston.  Their pinot noir is well-distributed and while I did not visit the winery, I have enjoyed their pinot noir many times (letting it breathe is key).

• For a map and an inclusive list of the wineries (some 24+) on the Tamar Valley Wine Route around the charming and historic Launceston area in northern Tasmania, go to:  http://www.tasmanianwineroute.com.au/tamar/tamar.htm.  

Note:  In the summer months, Aussies cool their pinot noir, so it presents a crispness not available when warmer.  Ask at bottle shops (liquor stores) for a cooled pinot noir in the summer.  Bottle shops often have a few bottles chilled in the cooler.  And while I’m on this subject — chilled — (not necessarily strictly Tassie, but worth a shout), try Aussie red sparkling wines too, if you have a chance.  Yummo!

With gratitude:  Special thanks to my friend JJ for her generosity in sharing with me the Tasmania she knows so well.